The Three Cities: Malta's Most Overlooked Destination

Most visitors to Malta spend their time in Valletta, Mdina, and the beach resorts — and miss entirely the three fortified cities that sit directly across the Grand Harbour — and miss entirely the three fortified peninsulas across the Grand Harbour that are, in many ways, more historically significant than Valletta itself.

Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua — collectively known as the Three Cities — were the original home of the Knights of St John when they arrived in Malta in 1530. They predate Valletta by decades and contain some of the most extraordinary military architecture in the Mediterranean. And almost no tourists go there.

Vittoriosa (Birgu): The Most Interesting of the Three

Vittoriosa is the jewel of the Three Cities. Its narrow medieval streets are lined with palaces, auberges, and churches that tell the story of the Knights of St John more vividly than anything in Valletta. Fort St Angelo, at the tip of the peninsula, was the Knights' headquarters during the Great Siege of 1565 — one of the most significant battles in European history.

The Inquisitor's Palace in Vittoriosa is one of the best-preserved inquisitor's palaces in the world and is now a museum. The Maritime Museum, housed in a former naval bakery, is excellent. And the waterfront promenade, with views of the Grand Harbour and Valletta across the water, is one of the most beautiful spots in Malta.

Senglea (L-Isla): The Smallest and Quietest

Senglea is the smallest of the Three Cities — a narrow peninsula with a population of just a few thousand. The Gardjola Gardens at the tip of the peninsula offer one of the best views in Malta: the Grand Harbour, Valletta, and Vittoriosa all visible from a single viewpoint. The famous watchtower with carved eyes and ears (symbolising vigilance) is one of Malta's most photographed landmarks.

Cospicua (Bormla): The Gateway

Cospicua is the largest of the Three Cities and the main entry point. It's less picturesque than Vittoriosa or Senglea but has its own character — a working-class neighbourhood with a strong community identity. The massive Cottonera Lines fortifications that surround all three cities are best appreciated from Cospicua.

How to Get There

The most memorable way to arrive is by dgħajsa — the traditional Maltese water taxi that crosses the Grand Harbour from Valletta's Lower Barrakka Gardens. The crossing takes about 10 minutes and costs a few euros. It's one of the most atmospheric short journeys in Malta, with views of the Grand Harbour that you simply can't get any other way.

By bus, routes 1, 2, 3, and 4 run from Valletta. By car, cross the bridge at Cospicua and park near the waterfront.

When to Visit

The Three Cities are best visited on a weekday morning, when the streets are quiet and the light is good for photography. Avoid Sunday afternoons in summer when day-trippers from Valletta arrive. The area is particularly atmospheric in the early evening when locals are out and the restaurants along the Vittoriosa waterfront are setting up for dinner.